Front Knuckle Seals

[fng]

My front axle knuckles seem to be producing an overage of grease. It looks like they need new seals. If I already have some (I'll have to look and see) how big a'deal is it to replace them? Will I need to pull the whole front spindle off to get to them?
If they are one piece seals can I get creative and split them in two and they still hold in the grease or kunkle putty? Thanks in advance.

[fisherman]

To do it the right way you should plan on taking everything apart. Clean and repack bearings, inside of knuckle cavity, and diff fluid. You can pull the axle out pretty easy at that point and clean it if you want. Don't mess with the kingpin shims. I know by experience. They are a PITA to reinstall correctly and get the proper scale # pull. Other than that once you get to the knuckle, clean really well, I painted mine and install the new seal and rubber wipes. Good luck.

[rpgdeity]

Yeah, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to check inside the knuckle and clean all that stuff thats in there and replace it with new stuff. Although, just for information, the knuckle seal can be taken off and replaced without tearing anything apart. Both the felt and the metal/rubber peice have a slit in them so they can be twisted and removed over the axle tube.

[fisherman]

My rubber seals were glued or pressed onto a piece of steel with a slit. The felt pieces are or mine were one piece. You want to be careful not to stretch the felt prior or during installation. Make sure the felt fits, then coat it and work some grease into it when you install it, don't install it dry. Also wipe some grease onto the rubber seal. This will act as a pre lube.

[fng]

Well, I bought this box last year that said it was every seal, bearing and shim I'd need to rebuild the dana 60 frontend....just opened it this morning and dern...no knukle seals!!!!
Anybody know where I could get a set? Would Memphis Eq. have them???? Guess I'll give them a call.

[brute4c]

Not sure who wold have them...Memphis would be a good starting point...

I have this tech from Spicergear about getting into the knuckle and all...its the "shortcut" way in:

nstead of having to disassemble all that crap at the ends of the axles, ie- drive flange, gobbs of grease to spindle nuts (special deep socket too) hub removal, spindle removal slobbed with more grease...you can try this- what I did way back when.

Slap the front axle on some jackstands.
Remove front wheels. Drum removal is optional, but it will be a little less weight to manage later if you pop them off at this point.
Remove the ring of bolts that holds the knuckle felt and seal on the backside of the closed knuckle. These are what seal the knuckle 'ball.' -This is also a good time to replace them if needed. Replacement seal is split so you can slip it around the axle tube, felt you can cut with scissor at top and slip it over no problem.
Take the upper and lower 4 bolt king pin assy's out. When removing the lower one...try not to drop the timken bearing into the crud you'll now have on the floor below it. Smile
Get another jackstand and put it near you at this point-
With the king pins out, get a good grip on the whole knuckle assy, give'er a wiggle and start to pull it out. Once the knuckle seperates, be sure that the axle shaft is pulling out with the knuckle assy. If it isn't just reach in and help it along.
You'll only need to pull this whole assy out 8"-10," just enough to be sure the axle is pulled clear of the differential.
Support hub (or drum) on that other jackstand.
-Do the same to the other side.
Oh, you'll prolly want to pull the diff cover first...but it really doesn't matter.

Now will all that jazz slid out you'll be able to MARK THE CAPS on the differential carrier, pop them off, drop the diff on your hand or finger then pop off the ring gear to be able to dump the spider gears and slap in your new lunch box locker.

There is really only ONE note that needs particular attention when going back together. The UPPER kingpin has a keyed something-or-other that needs to be put back in proper position. No big deal, just spend a minute to make sure it goes back on right and you're golden.

Spicergear-

Only addition to that info is also from Spicer....when he told it to me a while back.....where he says:



Quote:
Take the upper and lower 4 bolt king pin assy's out. When removing the lower one...try not to drop the timken bearing into the crud you'll now have on the floor below it. End Quote



Also note that there are shims in there. Keep each set with its appropriate side and location for reassembly to make things go easy on yourself.



And Barrman posted this:

I have a spare set of stock axles that I took to my class. I have had my students take them apart piece by piece and clean them up. Now we are putting them back together. I have had to demonstrate over and over again how the knuckle attaches to the axle. I have read the online manual section on this repeatedly and don't see the procedure that I have worked out.

I install the top steering arm, shims and bushing to the knuckle. Apply grease. I then put that assembly on the axle. Slide the bottom bearing in, bottom shims and then bottom pin.

This is a very easy and fast way to take the knuckles on or off. The top steering arm/pin never has to be unbolted, just the bottom pin.

I imagine that many of you do it this way already. I just thought that someone out there was looking at this and scratching their head.

[fng]

Thanks, that really helped. What ever happened to Spicergear? He'd already left before I joined. Sounds like he could really make a 715 sing.

[rpgdeity]

I got mine from my local Six States Distributors. I'm not sure if this part number is their number, or a spicer or something number, but its worth a try.

Knuckle Seal, prt# DA 706230X, price was $24 for EACH side (so you need 2 "kits", for a total price of about $48).

Hope this helps. If all else fails, I bet Six States would ship it to you, but try your local auto stores first.

[foodstamp]

i just did mine this weekend....mine were good, but i did the whole thing and repacked the bearings all that good stuff...theirs 2 seals, one on the hub, for that pull off the brake drum, and the hub. in the hub take out the two big nuts, and the unit will slilde off, the seal on the back of the hub was hard to get out so i took a tortch and heated it up and it slid out easy but becareful becouse it will light on fire...

the other seal is on the outside and easy to do its where the big ball is, the knuckel. all you do is putt those two C shaped shields of (backing plates) and pull it out and put the new one in

painted it up too....flat black with baby blue backing plates...

[foodstamp]

i forgot to add, just fo the future....your knuckel seal is on a metal ring that is cut in half so you can twist it off the axel...which can be a pita...at leased for me...but anywase, the rubber came off the metal WHAT i did was since im cheap and the rubber was still good, i got some permatex liquid gasket maker and glued them back together, works grate so far...