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Thread: Civillian wires and plugs on 24volt system?

  1. #1

    Question Civillian wires and plugs on 24volt system?

    If you remove the waterproof cover for the cap, put civilian plugs and a set of 7 or 8 mm civilian high quality wires... is there a problem if the system is still 24volt? I am considering this and hope someone else out there has already done it? A mechanic friend seems to think is should work fine.
    thanks,
    Jeff

    It would be a mod, so this is the right forum, I think

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Theres a couple ways to do this...but you gotta leave the cover there...the cap screws up to the bottom of it...lose the cover and you lose the cap.

    You can certainly install Autolite #275 plugs or equivalent...that is the civvy plug.

    On the wires, you can either do this:

    http://www.m715zone.com/vb/view.php?pg=mil_wire_convert

    OR

    You can get a set of wires for a V-8, generic application type...the 6 cylinder sets didnt have enough length for the rear plugs...
    Leave the spark plug end alone...of course...

    Strip the end of the wire for the cap...leave about 1/2 inch of the core exposed.

    FYI: The ignitor is the housing with the coil and distributor inside...they share a common cover...sometimes members dont know this so I add it in to clarify any of the below.

    Take off the ignitor cover, that the wires screw to now, and remove the cap underneath.
    If you get a set with the kinda round boots for the distributor end, they will go on the ignitor cover, over the threads where the stock wires go, and hold things in place.
    Put the wires through the cover, then CAREFULLY put them into the correct holes on the cap with the exposed core on the bottom so it bunches up underneath it as the only contact area for the core is the very bottom of the hole...not the sides at all...look in and you can see that. The holes that the plug wires goes down on the cap are brittle and like to break...if one does, you will most likely be buying a new cap...thus the caution...I'm not the only one to have done it either. Make sure the wires are all the way seated in the cap...I used a toothpick to measure the depth of the holes and then made a line on the wires at that measure to make sure I pushed them in all the way. Some even use electrical tape on the wire to boot area to make sure the wires dont back out under running vibration.

    Remember the firing order is on the valve cover and the direction of rotation is COUNTER- CLOCKWISE.

    Lace all the wires to the cap and carefully screw it back up to the cover and reattach that to the ignitor housing.

    That should do it...works good and parts are cheaper and more common...plus maintenance is easier on the plug side...easier to pull plugs and see what is going on there without having to pull all the wires with tools...easy to go back to the mil setup too, if desired.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
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    North Central Wisconsin
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    24 volt doesnt matter at the plug wires or plugs...only at the coil...it takes 24 volts in and makes it into around 35,000 that it sends to the plugs...so no sweat on the voltage....not a problem there at all.

  4. #4

    Default

    Great info, thanks as always!
    Jeff

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
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    Default

    No sweat...glad I have been there!

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