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Thread: foodstamp's incredible, never-ending multi-topic thread

  1. #121

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    When you do the camo you paint the truck the solid base color first, then put the camo spots on over the base color. If you really want authenticity, then do OD first, then the camo color base coat. The interior of the truck should be OD.

  2. #122
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    woodland ca
    Posts
    474

    Default

    i was going to paint it kaki then do camo over it, i probly will paint the interior OD or kaki, havent decided yet. if the out side is desert storm, the inside dosent need the camo too right, just the base color?
    my signature is sweet huh?

  3. #123

    Default

    You aren't doing a reso machine so do what you want. If you want to be correct then the interior is supposed to be whichever shade of green you like (Army or Marine).

  4. #124
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    woodland ca
    Posts
    474

    Default

    so even when the outside is kaki, the inside is OD?...


    can you buy a kit for the desert storm camo?
    my signature is sweet huh?

  5. #125

    Default

    The inside cab would be OD even when the outside has been painted a differen color. The military rarely bothers to repaint the inside of the cab and the factory delivered them in OD.

  6. #126
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Port Orchard, Wash.
    Posts
    4,572

    Default

    But you're not going for a 100% restoration or anything are ya? So paint the inside whatever color you like best.
    -- Tim Taylor


  7. #127

    Default

    The trucks that are the dark OD get HOT in the summer. Thats why I went with the sand color. After some time, I have decided to go from all sand to a combination camo scheme. I reccomend the lighter colors to stay cooler.
    "We are here for the meeting!"

  8. #128
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    woodland ca
    Posts
    474

    Default

    ok.....thanks.

    i have a idea how to get more lift out of the rear, and maby a little more flex. im goint to cut off the spring hangers, and mount them under the chassis, that will keep the shackel from over extending or how ever you want to say it, and more leverage for flex, and lift it about a nother inch or 2. just a ide, but what do you guys think, i could probly draw it on cad to show you better then i can describe
    my signature is sweet huh?

  9. #129

    Default

    You are planning on removing a few leafs, right? Hate to break it to you, but I don't care what you do to get more leverage, but unless you remove some leafs, you'll never even come close to over extending the shackle, and even then, I don't think shackle overextension is a problem.
    68 M-715
    67 M-725

  10. #130

    Default

    Holy smokes, I just found the camo talk on the tail end of this thread and to make my contribution to the zones longest thread ever, just want to put in my 1/50th a dollar. I was the guy that laid it out in soapstone and then filled it in with the krylon in the driveway. Here is the link to when I started it:

    Rattle Can Camo

    and here are some more shots after I doctor'd it up a bit more:

    Rattle Can Camo

    I ended up calling it the "Fish Hook Camo Pattern" If you look close you can see abunch of them hidden all over it. If I had to do it again I would probably follow the camo specs alot closer. They can also be found under the Manuals section in the green bar above all this. They are toward the bottom of the list on the left hand side under Kaiser M715 Cammo Pattern. As far as the liquior and paint fumes go I enjoyed plenty of both. My old respirator barely works but it was better than nothing. I guess you could say that I could paint the roof without using a ladder.

    I am a couple of weeks away from ordering the Gillespie good stuff and will get a better respirator by then....Hopefully! Good Luck, Jay

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