Fuel Tank Design with In-Tank Pump
DESIGN FOR REPLACEMENT FUEL TANK
I had a custom tank made by a local specialist (SP Sheet Metal Company/ http://www.sptanks.com / 446 North Main St. Barnegat, NJ 08005 / phone: 609-698-8800). I provided the attached design and they manufactured the part. They added internal baffles (which is why I added some details about the internal pump (with its filter sock) and fuel gauge sender for my project. They constructed the tank from 1/8” thick marine grade aluminum. I also had it powder coated afterward.
I used an internal fuel pump from FITech (part # and instructions are in the second attached document). The standard FITech product only works with tanks of a limited depth. They sell an extension to allow it to function with deeper tanks (which I purchased and used). Unfortunately, the extension kit does not include an extended wiring harness to get power to the pump, which sits at the bottom of the tank. As such, I needed to cut the standard harness and solder in addition wires to length. I was concerned about having wire joints inside my fuel tank. As such, I staggered the splice points on the two wires to reduce any likely short (and related spark). I also wrapped the splices in a fuel hose and filled the hose with putty that comes with a fuel tank repair kit. So far… no kaboom sound.
I hope this is helpful.
Confirmed. Tank fits into original / no meaningful dimension changes
The tank design I posted will occupy the same space as the original. The same straps are reused to secure this tank to the chassis. It holds approximately the same amount of fuel as the original.
The only difference you will see... the top does not include radius/rounded corners. It cost more to add the radius and they serve no purpose on the top side of the tank. The radius is on the bottom corners to allow for reuse of the original tank straps.
Jealous you did an LS swap.
