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So in wandering through my shipping container (more like tripping over the mess) I saw a two wheel drive T-18 with a Yoke on the back. So I am wondering if there is much advantage to running a T-18 over the T-98 in the M truck. I can swap the J truck buick 350 input into either one. Any opinions out there? As soon as I fix a broken Dodge I am back on the truck project.
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I can't remember the first gear ratios, but aren't they both non-sincromeshed first gears? My only thought would be getting gears for the T-18 would be easier down the road than the T-98, but I can't remember if they shared any parts. In the past I was looking for a T19 to get the sycromeshed first gear even though it wasn't as low of a ratio.
I found this https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledg...ssions/manual/
under the 4 gear transmission it has a pretty informative explanation for T18/19/98, though the T98 has its own section to review. I don't recall seeing it before, so it may be new to you as well- gonz
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I have not seen Novaks site for a good long time. It is all new and pretty cool. I did find more specific T98 info. Plus this on oil...
When filling your T98 with gear oil, we recommend that you select a conventional mineral oil or a para-synthetic in lieu of a full synthetic oil. Properly assembled manual gearboxes do not have the thermal strains seen by combustion engines or hypoid gears. Synthetic fluid in these gearboxes, while not harmful, is probably an economic waste.
Hypoid gear oil is sulphurized higher than transmission oil and can be mildly corrosive to the non-ferrous alloys used for synchros, bushings and thrust washers in these transmissions.
An 80W-90, API-GL5 or MT-1 rated fluid is very good. Some claim faster shifts from using a 50W engine oil in their transmission and we do not consider this to be contraindicated unless you operate your vehicle in a very warm environment.
That was from this page.
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge...ons/manual/t98
So it would be a wash it sounds like. And since I bought the conversion roller bearings for the Jeep J truck input swap into the T-98 already, I will stay the course. Thanks Gonz for the link to Novak. !!
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Yahoo! Finally some free time today. I am waiting on a Dodge part to show up. What better way to spend the afternoon than on the M truck. I cut out all the metal grafted onto my transmission frame crossmember ears and using pattern board restored both sides to back to original. A little more clean up and the T-98 can go in. I have been wanting to get this done for a couple months now. I want the cab on soon so I can keep it out of the snow. I also want to sew up two new tops and fit everything inside where it will be warm. Pictures probably tomorrow...;)
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What's this snow thing you're so worried about?:D
I worked on a truck Wednesday morning in Wallace that was headed east from Seattle and the driver said he was snowed on going westbound over Lookout a couple days prior. Winters coming.
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It is only 3 to 5 feet usually. Nothing to worry about...;) So it has been below freezing several times now. And South Baldy where the fire look out is has had snow twice now. Its a coming. :eek: I realized my Dodge divorced NP205 has overhead mounting holes. So the NP200 mounts might get used to reach them, but definitely not a bolt in. More fabrication in store.
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Well I was able to get several repairs done. It feels like I am actually making progress. The frame needed restoring back to it's original configuration. I cut off the add on's and put back metal.
The bottom got cut off and a higher bottom flange was welded about 2 inches up. You can see the shiney spots where the welds were. 4 passes they made. It took a while to remove. :D
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
The other side. Just fitting the parts for now.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
Stick welded with 7018 rod turned up. A heavy bevel on both sides for complete penetration. I use stick welding for when I want maximum strength. Those are the pieces I cut out on the floor. The original frame cross member fits perfectly again.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
Temporary paint till I can paint the whole frame.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
And out came the pressure washer and engine degreaser. I ended up blasting the J truck bell housing also. Nice to have the grease gone. It was cold today. I took a greasy cold shower.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
I repaired a stripped hole in the Buick 350 flywheel with a helicoil insert. And dug out the clutch parts. I don't have the right release fork or throw out bearing. Wandering through Novaks website that Gonz posted, I found what looks to be the right fork for a hydraulic conversion. I have a little lathe work on the throw out bearing carrier collar and I should be set. I will make it work.
I am only assembling to see how everything fits. I will put the truck together, do all repairs and strip it for detailing every part later. It is to cold to do effective paint work.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
I need to fabricate a hydraulic slave cylinder mount. I know I saved a pattern from my CJ 20 years ago. Maybe I can find it. :D
Onward...
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Yes, and thank you for the frame cross member and all the parts. If I can just get everything assembled by spring, I can take it all apart and paint all of it.
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Looking great man. Keep those awesome pics coming.